Dog Blog | Dog Treats

Much like their owners, more and more dogs worldwide are showing signs of obesity. Besides limiting their enjoyment of life as a dog, extra body weight can lead to to joint and heart problems, shorter lives, and sometimes behavioural issues.

The easiest way to tell whether or not your dog is obese is to examine his body. Try the following:
Have him stand up, then stand above him. Does his body slope inward at the waist?

Run your hands over his sides from front to back legs. Can you feel his ribs fairly easily?

Feel the base of his tail. Are the bones easily detectable?

Look at him from the side. Does his tummy slope upward as it gets closer to his tail?

If you answered no to any of the questions, your pup is probably overweight. If you answered “What waist/ribs/tail bones?” and “Upward? Really?,” your pup is probably obese.
The methods for treating obesity in dogs is fairly simple: eat less, exercise more.

Eat less

If your dog has a constant supply of food, remove it.

Buy a food scoop with measuring lines and portion his food based on the charts on your food labels.

Create a feeding schedule and stick to it. Whether you split the amount among two feedings or one larger meal, stay with the routine and he’ll adjust to it.
Be forewarned, though. Dogs are survival eaters and don’t react well when their food supply is threatened. She may suddenly, start raiding the trash or taking food off of the counter.

When feeding him treats, make sure to feed him dog treats that are high in protein and other vitamins, and low in fat.

Exercise more

It won’t take any convincing to get your dog to exercise more, just get the leash and head out for a walk. Plan to spend an hour total every day walking. I realize that it’s hard these days to find the time. If you have kids, drag them away from the TV and go for a family walk after dinner. If you work out yourself, figure out a way to incorporate your dog into your routine. On the weekends, head to the park with a tennis ball or a Frisbee.

Think of it this way: Would you rather see your dog running, tongue out, tail wagging for 10 years, or that he lay around the house for five? How many people get to have a to-do list that includes “Play with Dog”?

The right diet and exercise can make your dog more social, more obedient, and more dedicated to you due to the extra time you spend together.

Wasn’t that the whole reason you decided to get a dog in the first place?

If you’ve ever been kept awake by a dog that can’t stop scratching, biting and licking itself, then both of you have suffered from skin allergies. Skin allergies, or dermatitis, are one of the trickiest problems to diagnose in an animal, since they can have many different causes. In its misery, the affected animal also usually worsens the problem by continually scratching and licking at the affected places, undoing any healing that’s occurred.

There are six categories of dermatitis: allergic, environmental, infectious, neurogenic, nutritional and parasitic. Anything from food, carpeting, blankets, dust mites and mold spores in the air to pollen, plastic food dishes, furniture stuffing and ornamental plants all can trigger an allergic reaction in dogs. Food allergies, especially, are commonplace. So common, in fact, that many pet food manufacturers now produce “antigen specific” diets to help treat dogs with food allergies.  Also, if feeding your dog chews or treats, make sure to give him all natural dog treats.  This will help reduce the risk of any possible allergies.
Infectious dermatitis is caused by bacteria, fungi or yeast organisms, and results in moist, sticky and inflamed skin lesions, combined with hair loss. The bacteria spread rapidly and can be transferred to other areas of the skin through licking and scratching. One specific type of bacterium, Microsporum canis, causes the well-known circular type of hair loss known as ringworm.

Treatment for infectious dermatitis starts with clipping the fur away from the infected site to help air dry the skin. Topical medications also are applied, and oral antibiotics are prescribed to fight the underlying bacteria. Antihistamines and cortisone also may be given to suppress the itching. The use of the latter, however, is at the veterinarian’s discretion, since cortisone can slow the healing process.

A second type of dermatitis is caused by factors in the environment, such as exposure to swimming pool chemicals, soil or even some types of grass. Nutritional dermatitis, meanwhile, occurs when the dog is receiving inadequate nutrition. It’s a common condition among pets that are fed the cheapest brands of dog food, which usually don’t live up to their “complete and balanced diet” claims. If you feed your dog exclusively dry food, make sure the first ingredient listed is meat, such as beef, poultry, lamb or fish. Omega-3 fatty acid supplements also help many dogs recover from this type of skin allergy. Allergic dermatitis, meanwhile, can be triggered by a wide range of allergens, including food ingredients, synthetic and natural fibers, medications, over-the-counter pharmaceutical products, plants and even dust and dust mites. In some cases, the dog’s own naturally occurring bacteria can spark an autoimmune response, resulting in dermatitis. Just as with humans, a dog’s specific allergies can be diagnosed through blood and skin tests.

Perhaps one of the most embarrassing behavior problems is a dog who acts aggressively on leash, whether towards dogs, other animals or people. Often these dogs do not exhibit any aggression when off leash. Though puzzling to owners, the difference between off leash and on leash behavior offers a clue to the problem as well as the solution. Recognize that on leash aggression always involves unintentional signals from the owner which create a vicious cycle. Here’s how: At some point, usually in adolescence, the dog growls, barks, lunges at or snaps at a dog or person. The owner is surprised and embarrassed, and not sure what to do. If not handled correctly, the dog may persist in this behavior and get worse over time. Understandably, the owner begins to anticipate any situation which might trigger this behavior. Spotting an approaching dog or person before the dog does, the owner tightens up on the leash so he can control the dog better, stiffens his own body posture and holds his breath. The dog notices the change in the leash tension, the owner’s body posture and breathing, and begins looking to see what has the owner so worried, and once he spots it, begins his aggressive behavior. Did you know that the first step in attack training is to give the dog something or someone he wants to get to, while using a tight lead and tense body posture to excite the dog into a more aggressive state? In the case of on leash aggression, the owner actually makes the situation worse without meaning to, and the dog simply responds to signals received from the owner. What can you do to solve the problem? Here’s the basics: Train! Take the time to teach your dog self control and basic obedience commands which you can reinforce, and praise his good behavior by giving him dog treats or toys.Be alert to the earliest signs. No dog spends his entire life in an aggressive state. Learn what body language your dog exhibits when he is calm and relaxed, and what changes occur as he moves into a more aggressive mood. Watch for changes in ears, head and neck carriage, eye shape and expression, mouth and whisker changes, tail carriage and overall posture. Intervention at the first sign of a problem is more successful than trying to deal with the full blown aggression. Redirect the dog’s attention. By giving a command he knows in a cheerful, upbeat tone, you can redirect the dog’s attention back to working with you. If possible, change direction and move away from the situation - the dog cannot walk briskly with you and be aggressive at the same time. Change the body posture, change the emotional state. Body language is nothing more than an external expression of an internal state. It is possible to change an emotional state by changing body posture and vice versa. This is why the advice to “Stand up straight, smile and you’ll feel better” actually works! In the case of aggression, imagine how hard it would be to be angry if you were sitting in a comfortable chair with your face and head relaxed. With a dog, you can physically change the body posture, and thus shift the emotional state, by simply asking the dog to sit (a neutral, non-aggressive position) and using your hands to stroke ears, mouth, head and hackles back to a more relaxed position. This is not petting, and you are not trying to reassure the dog. Concentrate on changing the body posture using firm strokes of your hands at the same time you insist the dog sit quietly with no tension on the leash. This very simple technique is amazingly effective. Be aware of your breathing and body posture. Since we tend to hold our breath and thus tense our muscles when nervous (facts that do not escape the dog), it is important to breathe in a more normal fashion. The easiest way is to either sing or tell the dog a fairy tale, such as Goldilocks and the Three Bears. While this sounds silly, the very silliness keeps you calm and relaxed. How uptight can you get talking about a blonde and three bears in the woods? Keep the leash loose. Remember tension on the leash encourages aggressive behavior. Put the dog under a command, like “sit”, using the leash if needed to help him, but then immediately loosen all tension on the leash. This does NOT mean to give the dog the full freedom of his leash - keep your hand on the leash in such a way so that if needed you can quickly control him, but do not have any tension on the leash. If the dog breaks position, quietly remind him what he was asked to do, and reposition him. Learn the difference between aggression and an appropriate response to rudeness. Far too many dogs are labeled aggressive when in fact they are responding in a perfectly appropriate canine fashion to rudeness. This usually occurs with others dogs whose owners allow them to be very rude because they believe that their dog is simply saying “hello” to your dog. What is really happening is a canine version of a complete stranger rushing up to you and hugging & kissing you! If you verbally snapped at such a person and pushed him away, you would be well within your rights, and not considered aggressive. Don’t let your dog be rude, and try to protect him from well meaning but uninformed owners who allow their dogs to be rude. Shouting doesn’t equal murder! Very few canine arguments result in any serious injuries. Though it is scary when dogs snap, growl and bark, remember that dog behavior is mostly posturing and threats designed to avoid real conflict. Just as you may raise your voice when upset to warn someone that you are angry, this does not mean you will escalate to real violence. Your dog uses his body language and vocalizations in the same way. Should a physical conflict arise, most dogs have bite inhibition and rarely inflict any serious damage. Knowing this allows you to stay calmer, and not imagine the worst!

Equally important to annual dental exams at your veterinarian’s practice is home dental care, including brushing your dog’s teeth every day if possible. AAHA recommends a technique for both younger and older dogs, although it’s easier to start brushing when your dog is young.To introduce a fearful Fido to the idea of dental care, start slowly and gradually. Dip a finger into beef bouillon (for dogs) or tuna water (for cats) and gently rub along your pet’s gums and teeth. The most important area to focus on is the gum line (the crevice where the gums meet the teeth), where bacteria and food mix to form plaque. Focusing on the gum line, start at the front of the mouth, then move to the back upper and lower teeth and gum areas. Once your pet is okay with a little bit of touching, gradually introduce gauze over your finger and rub the teeth and gums in a circular fashion.When your four-legged friend can handle the gauze, try brushing with a toothbrush specially designed for pets or a very soft, ultra-sensitive toothbrush designed for people. The bristles should be held at a 45-degree angle to the tooth surface and be moved in an oval motion. Scrub in the gum line, as this is where odor and infection begin. Gradually add special dog/cat toothpaste (flavored with meat or fish), but never use people toothpaste or baking soda, as both will upset your pet’s stomach.

Use the following process to clean the inside surfaces of your pet’s teeth:

1. Place your hand over your pet’s muzzle from the top
2. Gently squeeze and push his lips on one side between the back teeth (to keep his mouth open)
3. Pull his head back gently so his mouth opens
4. Brush his teeth on the opposite side
5. Repeat this process for the other side

The entire process should only take a minute or two. If your dog or cat continues to resist, try gently wrapping him in a large bath towel with only his head sticking out. Above all, avoid overstraining and keep sessions short and positive. With plenty of praise and reassurance, your dental sessions can bring the two of you closer—a closeness that won’t be marred by the perils of dog breath. Home care can be improved by feeding your pet an unmoistened dry pet food and offering him hard dog treats after each meal. Both dry food and hard dog treats produce abrasion to help keep plaque to a minimum on the crown of each tooth.

AAHA encourages pet owners to regularly examine their pet’s teeth for signs of periodontal disease, such as brownish colored teeth; swollen, red, or bleeding gums; persistent bad breath; loose teeth or loss of teeth; pus between the gums and teeth; broken teeth and any unusual growth in the mouth. Reluctance to eat, play with chew toys, or drink cold water are warning signs of periodontal or gum disease. Consult your veterinarian if you notice any of these signs in your pet.

How do they do it?
There are a number of explanations for exactly how pets accomplish all these health benefits. First of all, pets need walking, feeding, grooming, fresh water, and fresh kitty litter, and they encourage lots of playing and petting. All of these activities require some action from owners. Even if it’s just getting up to let a dog out a few times a day and giving him dog treats, or brushing a cat, any activity can benefit the cardiovascular system and help keep joints limber and flexible. Consistently performing this kind of minor exercise can keep pet owners able to carry out the normal activities of daily living. Pets may also aid seniors simply by providing some physical contact. Studies have shown that when people pet animals, their blood pressure, heart rate, and temperature decrease–see the Health Benefits of Pet Ownership.

Many benefits of pet ownership are less tangible, though. Pets are an excellent source of companionship, for example. They can act as a support system for older people who don’t have any family or close friends nearby to act as a support system. The JAGS study showed that people with pets were better able to remain emotionally stable during crises than those without. Pets can also work as a buffer against social isolation. Often the elderly have trouble leaving home, so they don’t have a chance to see many people. Pets give them a chance to interact. This can help combat depression, one of the most common medical problems facing seniors today. The responsibility of caring for an animal may also give the elderly a sense of purpose, a reason to get up in the morning. Pets also help seniors stick to regular routines of getting up in the morning, buying groceries, and going outside, which help motivate them to eat and sleep regularly and well.

What makes bully sticks different from eachother?

While most bully sticks may cosmetically appear to be the same, often they are not.  Many bully sticks on the market today are processed and treated in different ways.  The most popular, and cheapest way to process bully sticks is to lay them on roofs, or other hot surfaces, where they bake in the sun until dried.  This is not the most sanitary nor the best practice.  Although cheap, it does not properly drain all of the blood and/or urine from the bully stick.  It also makes it easier for bacteria and other parasites to enter the product, creating a stronger smell.  The best method, and the method that we promote, is to hang them vertically in enclosed processing areas.  This ensures that all of the blood, urine, and other liquid can properly drain, leaving less of an odor than those layed in the sun to bake and dry.

 How do we keep our costs for bully sticks low? We obtain our bully sticks from Venezuela, Argentina, and other South American countries, where they are fully inspected and approved by the FDA and USDA before entering the USA. The cattle practices are much more ”natural” in these areas, and they are allowed to roam “free range” in lush green pastures.  They are not given hormones or other chemicals in order to increase their growth rate.  Many cattle in the USA are kept in feed lots, are much more expensive, and are given way too many chemicals throughout their lifetime. 

 Most bully sticks that major pet retailers sell are irradiated, or chemically treated (with bleach).  This completely removes all of the odor and kills any disease that might be in the product.  This may sound like a safe practice, but it is not recommended to feed your dog “irradiated” products.  There are other more “natural” methods to ensure the product is rid of bacteria or other contaminants, such as oven baking or roasting.  Our products are fully lab tested and approved for distribution in the USA.  If you are concerned about purchasing from a major pet store or retailer, make sure you ask them the method of treatment for bacteria removal in the product.

Few things in life are prettier than watching a well-trained dog and one of the basic commands is the sit command. There are several methods of teaching your dog to sit. Two of the most popular are the Click and the Compulsory methods. The Click method is based again on purely positive reinforcement while the Compulsory method uses both positive and negative reinforcements. Let’s begin our discussion with the easier of the two, The Click Method.The Click Method of training a dog to sit is based upon rewarding the animal for the desired behavior. It gets its name from the idea that some audible queue is used to alert the animal of a pending reward with many trainers using a device called a clicker for this purpose. Whenever the audible queue is given, the reward follows immediately. To train a dog to sit by this method requires little effort on the trainers’ part. One begins by lavishing the dog with several dog treats, one right after the other while giving the audible queue.

Then abruptly stop the shower of treats and wait for the animal to direct its attention to you. Now display a treat and give the audible queue as you give the treat to the pet. Now hold another treat at chest level so that the dog must look up to see the treat. After a few minutes, your pet will likely sit down on its haunches because this position makes it much easier to watch the treat. Immediately, when this happens, give the audible queue and reward the pet. Repeat this lesson several times.

After a while you will notice your pet sitting in anticipation of the click and the reward so it is now time to add your verbal command to the routine. When the dog begins to sit, say “sit”. This will gradually teach the dog that the command precedes the action and they will learn the meaning of the command in this way. After some practice and a bit of patience, your dog should begin to sit without having to see a reward being offered.Now let’s discuss the more traditional method of training. The Compulsory Method. This is the method grand dad used on his dogs. Tell the puppy to sit while enforcing it. Saying the verbal command “sit” and pushing down on the puppy’s tail section to make it contact the floor accomplish the lesson. With some dogs you might have to hold their chin up during this process or they will go ahead and lie down. The object behind the lesson is to teach the pup when you say “sit” that there is no other choice but to sit and so eventually the animal will respond on its own rather than having to be coaxed into position.

Some owners use a tool called a choke collar for this training method. They will leash the dog with the choke collar in place and upon the sit command push the dog down. At the same time they will hold the choke collar down by way of the leash allowing only enough slack for the dog to sit but not stand up. If the dog tries to stand the choke collar tightens around the animals’ neck producing extreme discomfort.

The author does not recommend this method as it can produce a nervous and fearful animal, which can become quite aggressive when it feels threatened. Such training also makes leash training much more difficult as it teaches the animal to fear the leash because of the pain inflicted by it. This also tends to lessen the bond between master and dog because the dog comes to associate the master with the pain and discomfort as well and may lash out at the owner or others if the treatment continues.In whichever method you choose for training your pet, one thing remains constant. Always be consistent. Also be sure to pour lavish affection upon your pet for good behaviors and responses as this improves their bond to you and makes them desire to please you more fully. With a moderate amount of time and patience, your dog will be rivaling any animal presented at the local dog competitions for his well-trained style and mannerisms.

Without agility, the most muscular person in the world couldn’t win a fight against a fifth-grader. But did you know that for a dog agility is possibly even more important? With so many of a dog’s happiest moments spent running, jumping, catching, and stretching, dog agility training can really help dogs age gracefully and happily.

What is dog agility training?

You’ve probably seen dog agility training on television. The dogs run a course of tire hoops, tunnels, seesaw, dog walk plank, jumps, hurdles, weaving poles, and a 3-meter A-frame. Heeling, sitting, down stays, send-aways as well as walking off leash are also included.

Who can participate?

Anyone with a dog can do agility training. There is not age limit for people or dogs. In fact, children and puppies are encouraged to take part. All breeds and sizes of dogs without a physical disability can benefit from agility training. Be sure to check with your vet before you begin agility training if you have any doubts about your canine’s fitness.

What equipment is needed?

You as the handler will need comfortable shoes and clothes that you can run in, because this is not exercise for the dog alone. Your dog needs a leather or webbed buckle collar and a leather, nylon or rope lead of fairly long length. Do not use a chain lead; it could get caught in the jumps.

Agility Training Courses for Dogs

There are two sides of agility training for dogs. They are the obstacles and the control training. There are also tips for training your dog. Obstacles. Although it seems high to many handlers, the A-frame is the best obstacle to begin training. The dog walk plank, low jump and the tunnel (dogs love this obstacle) are also excellent for training the novice dog.

Control training is important to keep your dog disciplined both on the agility course and off. Everybody knows that a dog must heel and sit. You must also teach your dog to know and obey different commands: to go left and right, lay down, and wait. After those are mastered, the dog must learn normal recall (returning anytime you call) and recall over obstacles. Also important is the “send away” command, making the dog go ahead you.

Tips for Dog Agility Training

Begin training by getting your dog’s attention. Talk to him and offer him dog treats. Coupled with the love he has for you, he’ll be all ears. Be sure you have the correct lead (generally 6 feet) and a comfortable collar (measure the dog’s neck and add 2 inches) for your dog. Give praise often. “Tune in” to your dog to be sure she and you are ready to train.

Here’s a final tip: make sure that you and your dog enjoy yourselves. After all, jumping through hoops is supposed to be fun–at least if you’re a dog.

Are you concerned about the dry food your dog is eating? Looking for detailed information about certain food ingredients? Confused about inconsistent information about dogfood from pet food manufacturers? Need help comparing dog food brands, or finding healthy dog treats?

Then you are exactly where I was when I first heard about the disgusting materials some pet food manufacturers put into their products. I picked up a bag of Science Diet and consciously looked at the ingredient list for the first time. Even without any previous knowledge I could see that it did not include any real meat and was preserved with the same chemicals I avoid in human food products. I never bought another bag of Science Diet and started researching and comparing products. One of the things I learned was that any commercial sources are best avoided if you want hard facts, not biased “infomercial” style sales pitches trying to sell you one product or another. Hopefully you will find this article helpful, make up your own mind about different food brands and their quality, choose a better food and who knows - maybe even save some money.

by Ehow Pets Editor:

Barking, whining, escaping, destructive behavior or, in severe cases, self-mutilation can be your dog’s way of expressing anxiety over your absence.

Things You’ll Need:

Dog Treats

Dog Dishes

Dog Leashes

Dog Toys