Dog Blog | Dog Treats & Dog Supplies

Dog bites are a serious problem in the United States. Each year, 4.7 million people are bitten by dogs, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Around 17 percent of these people require medical care. And in approximately 10-20 tragic cases per year, the bite victim is killed. The CDC has labeled dog bites in America an “epidemic.”The ten breeds involved in the most lethal attacks over the past ten years are pit bulls, rottweilers, German shepherds, huskies, malamutes, Dobermans, chow chows, St. Bernards, Great Danes, and Akitas.In response to this growing problem, some communities have banned ownership of certain dogs that are perceived as dangerous, particularly pit bulls and rottweilers. Are some breeds really more dangerous than others?

Breed characteristics: It’s difficult to determine just how much a dog’s genetics determine his behavior, just like it’s hard to know how much of a person’s personality is nature and how much is nurture. It’s true that some breeds were bred to perform tasks that require more aggression than others. Pit bulls, for example, were bred to fight dogs and other animals for sport. Some people theorize that pit bulls’ genetics make them more prone to violence than other dogs, and pit bulls have in fact been involved in more fatal attacks than any other dog over the past 20 years. But breeds that are not bred for aggression, including golden retrievers, cocker spaniels, and Yorkshire terriers, have been involved in fatal attacks as well.It’s also true that some breeds simply have more ability to injure people than others do. Though it’s no more likely to bite than a smaller dog, if it does bite, a Great Dane can do much more damage than a Maltese, for example. (Even very small breeds can be dangerous to children, however.)A study performed by the American Veterinary Medical Association, the CDC, and the Humane Society of the United States, analyzed dog bite statistics from the last 20 years and found that the statistics don’t show that any breeds are inherently more dangerous than others. The study showed that the most popular large breed dogs at any one time were consistently on the list of breeds that bit fatally. There were a high number of fatal bites from Doberman pinschers in the 1970s, for example, because Dobermans were very popular at that time and there were more Dobermans around, and because Dobermans’size makes their bites more dangerous. The number of fatal bites from pit bulls rose in the 1980s for the same reason, and the number of bites from rottweilers in the 1990s. The study also noted that there are no reliable statistics for nonfatal dog bites, so there is no way to know how often smaller breeds are biting.This study supports what many veterinarians have believed for years: nearly any dog can be aggressive or nonaggressive, depending on his training and environment. Owners play a big part in making sure that their pet is safe around other people. There are several steps you can take to help ensure that your dog isn’t dangerous.

Restrain your pet. Unrestrained dogs cause about 82 percent of all fatal bites. Keeping your dog on a strong leash whenever you’re in public is a big first step toward preventing bites. Also, don’t encourage strangers to interact with your dog; strangers and a strange environment may startle him. If you leave your dog alone outdoors, your yard needs to be enclosed with a six- to eight-foot fence, depending on your dog’s size.

Socialize your puppy. Once your pup has been fully vaccinated and he has your veterinarian’s okay, take him to puppy classes, the park, and the pet store. Take him anywhere where he can interact with people and other dogs in a nonthreatening environment. Praise him when he interacts well with others.

Spay or neuter your dog. Intact (non-neutered) male dogs are responsible for approximately 80 percent of fatal bites. When dogs are altered, they lose some of their territorial insticts, including a lot of their territorial aggression.

Train him not to bite. Dogs will mouth, chew, and bite everything from your hands to your furniture until you teach them that it’s inappropriate. If your dog is biting you, or growling at you or other family members, distract him with a quick sound, such as a clap or a sharp “ow!” Then redirect his attention to a chewable treat, such as bully sticks. Be sure to reward him when you catch him chewing on the right things.

Watch your dog’s behavior. This may be the most important part of preventing your dog from biting. It’s easy for owners to be in denial that their sweet, furry Fido may be a threat. But if your dog exhibits any of the following behaviors, it’s time for your veterinarian’s help: growling at, snapping at, or biting family members; growling or snapping at strangers; or extreme fear of strangers.

If you see signs that your dog could be aggressive or dangerous, you can ask your veterinarian to refer you to a veterinary behavioral specialist. While your dog is being treated for aggression, be careful with him in public. Be sure to warn strangers to use caution if they interact with him.Following these directions won’t guarantee that your dog won’t bite, but they’ll certainly make it less likely. Any dog that is well restrained and well trained can be perfectly safe, regardless of breed. The truth is, an irresponsible owner is much more dangerous than any dog.

Crate training is an excellent way to teach your dog good behavior, as well as give your dog his own space. Benefits of crate training include:

• Prevents damage to your furniture and other household valuables while you are away or sleeping
  
• Helps you teach your dog proper chewing and elimination (bathroom) behavior
  
• Provides security for your dog and safety for young children in your home
  
• Easy traveling
  
• Improves your relationship with your dog

Before you begin crate training, keep in mind that the crate should be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in. Pet stores carry many different sizes of crates so you can find the one that best fits your dog. You should place the crate in a room where there is activity, i.e. your family room, because dogs are social animals. Finally, the crate should be used as your pet’s retreat, or “sanctuary” — it should not be used for punishment. Use the crate to avoid problems such as chewing and jumping before they occur, and use a separate space if you wish to put your dog in “time out.”

Crate Training Puppies
Begin crate training with your puppy early in the day so he has the whole day to adapt to the crate. Place his favorite treats or toys, such as bully sticks, in his crate to motivate him to enter the crate on his own. The first time you confine your puppy to the crate he should be ready to take a nap, so schedule this for after a play or exercise session and after he has gone to the bathroom. Leave the room but stay close enough to be able to hear him. It is normal for your puppy to cry or whine at first, but never reward him by letting him out when he cries. It may be difficult, but you must ignore his cries until they stop before you release him from the crate.

If your puppy does not quiet down on his own, you may try lightly scolding him, but be sure not to scold him excessively. Harsh scolding could lead to fear and anxiety, and exacerbate the crying or cause your puppy to soil the crate. Be sure to stay out-of-sight when scolding your puppy so he doesn’t learn to associate the correction with your presence. Try squirting him with a water sprayer or shake a can with pebbles or coins to interrupt his cries.

Crate Training Adult Dogs
Except for the introduction of your dog to his crate, crate training an adult dog is similar to crate training a puppy. Set up your dog’s crate in his feeding area and leave the door open for a few days. Place food, treats and toys in the crate so the dog is motivated to enter on his own. Close the crate door only after your dog fully enters the crate on his own.

As with puppies, your dog may cry or whine at first. Use the same correction methods given for training puppies with your dog. Gradually increase the amount of time that your dog must remain quiet in the crate before you release and reward him.

What is adolescent chewing?

Adolescent chewing (or exploratory chewing as it is also known) commonly occurs in dogs between puppyhood and adulthood at 7-12 months of age.

This chewing stage can last for up to 6 months.

Adolescent chewing is different from puppy teething since it happens after all the needle-like puppy teeth have fallen out. Adolescent dogs often have an uncontrollable urge to chew. This could be because of discomfort in their gums as their adult teeth are settling into the jawbone.

This kind of chewing also occurs as the young dog is attempting to find out about his environment and discover new things.

Other reasons for chewing:

An unbalanced diet – if a dog does not have enough calcium in his diet, for example, he may try to compensate by chewing stones or plaster. Puppies and dogs of all ages should be fed a balanced diet, according to their age, weight, health status and the amount of exercise they receive. You should consult your vet for advice on the best diet to feed your dog.
Attention-seeking – if your dog learns that by picking something up in his mouth (such as a TV remote control) you get up and chase him round the room, he will quickly learn that this is a great way to get your attention.
Distress at being left alone – some dogs cannot cope with being separated from their owners and can be destructive when left.
Puppy teething - occurs from 3-7 months of age. During this time, puppies have an uncontrollable urge to chew things to relieve some of the discomfort in their gums. Chewing also facilitates the removal of puppy teeth, and the eruption of the adult set.  Giving the dog chewable treats, such as bully sticks will also help keep the dog busy and focused on one thing.
Boredom – Dogs that are left alone for long periods or receive inadequate mental and physical stimulation are likely to become bored. Working breeds, such as Springer Spaniels, that have naturally high activity levels become easily bored in the wrong home, which can lead to destructive behaviour when left.

Kenneled dogs:

Young dogs that have been kennelled during their adolescent months, and therefore prevented from carrying out normal chewing and exploratory behaviours, will often chew when they then go to live in a normal home environment.

This can occur with dogs that have been kept in barren quarantine, rescue, working or boarding kennels. In these dogs the adolescent chewing stage may be prolonged.

What makes bully sticks different from eachother?

While most bully sticks may cosmetically appear to be the same, often they are not.  Many bully sticks on the market today are processed and treated in different ways.  The most popular, and cheapest way to process bully sticks is to lay them on roofs, or other hot surfaces, where they bake in the sun until dried.  This is not the most sanitary nor the best practice.  Although cheap, it does not properly drain all of the blood and/or urine from the bully stick.  It also makes it easier for bacteria and other parasites to enter the product, creating a stronger smell.  The best method, and the method that we promote, is to hang them vertically in enclosed processing areas.  This ensures that all of the blood, urine, and other liquid can properly drain, leaving less of an odor than those layed in the sun to bake and dry.

 How do we keep our costs for bully sticks low? We obtain our bully sticks from Venezuela, Argentina, and other South American countries, where they are fully inspected and approved by the FDA and USDA before entering the USA. The cattle practices are much more ”natural” in these areas, and they are allowed to roam “free range” in lush green pastures.  They are not given hormones or other chemicals in order to increase their growth rate.  Many cattle in the USA are kept in feed lots, are much more expensive, and are given way too many chemicals throughout their lifetime. 

 Most bully sticks that major pet retailers sell are irradiated, or chemically treated (with bleach).  This completely removes all of the odor and kills any disease that might be in the product.  This may sound like a safe practice, but it is not recommended to feed your dog “irradiated” products.  There are other more “natural” methods to ensure the product is rid of bacteria or other contaminants, such as oven baking or roasting.  Our products are fully lab tested and approved for distribution in the USA.  If you are concerned about purchasing from a major pet store or retailer, make sure you ask them the method of treatment for bacteria removal in the product.