Don’t Your Pets Deserve the Best?

Afghans are not incredibly social dogs by nature. They do bond well with family members but they tend to be shy and distrustful of strangers which could make traveling with them a hassle. They can also be upset very easily by changes in their environment and routine so a chaotic household is not ideal for them.
Afghan hounds are wonderful dogs but they are not for the casual dog owner. They require almost constant care and attention and their well being must be taken into account in every aspect of family life. They do seem to be one of the most high maintenance breeds of the dog world!  They are also very picky about their daily walking, so make sure to get them proper dog leashes.

Finding a solution to your dog’s barking behavior is something almost every dog owner has had to struggle with at some point. Dogs bark for many reasons and it can be hard to quiet them, because they are usually trying to tell you something. Whether they would like something to eat, have seen someone lurking outside your home or are simply talking back to you after you have told them not to do something, each bark has a purpose. Finding the training solution can be a challenge, because frequency and severity of barking behavior varies from dog to dog.

When is Training Essential?
 
If your dog doesn’t bark very often, your dog barking solutions will be very different from someone that has a chronic barker. Chronic barking usually occurs people work during the day and leave their dog in the house until they get home. In that type of situation, a dog will usually bark throughout the day from boredom, maybe loneliness, hunger and so on. Then, when the owner gets home, the dog becomes very excited and will most likely begin barking even more. If your dog is barking constantly and is disrupting the lives of others, finding solutions becomes essential.  Often times a quick remedy would be to give the dog a treat or chew, like greenies.  This will keep him occupied for a while, and over time, he will seek out his treats for comfort!

 Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in young dogs is generally a form of social play. Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The first thing you must do is provide ample opportunity for play, without biting. Social play with people could involve retrieve games (ball, Frisbee or soft toy), hide n’ seek (with the puppy finding the humans for a treat), chasing after soap bubbles as well as walks, swimming or learning tricks. Although wrestling and tug of war games can be fun, they may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious.  Another quick remedy would be to provide the puppy with a dog chew or dog treat, like greenies.  This will be sure to keep him busy for a while and detour him from destroying personal items.

Puppies need to learn bite inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their litter mates It is one reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks and they have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood.

 A dog barks for various reasons. Barking could be a sign of seeking attention, anxiety, stress or aggression. But whatever the reasons are, a bark collar is a universal solution to solve that behavioral problem. It is a very good option if your dog’s barking has become excessive and annoying to other people.

Contrary to popular beliefs, a bark control collar is not an unsafe electronic equipment but a very effective tool in training your dog if used properly. There are various advantages of using a bark collar. In fact, it is too effective that you can notice an enormous improvement in your k9’s barking within the first week of training.

If your dog has become too violent to the point that he scares you and your neighbors, you should consider purchasing bark collars . This tool can correct the barking problem and can make the people around you feel safer when walking by your canine pet.

Another advantage of having a bark collar placed around your dog’s neck is that your dog will not bark when an unfamiliar person visits your house. It will also not disturb your neighbors during night time.

However, first time users of this type of training collar should be extra careful. The first instance your k9 receives a correction from a bark control collar he may react in a certain way. He may yip or jump slightly. But don’t worry for these reactions are just normal.  You could always calm him by giving him some tasty lamb dog treats also.

The first reaction of your dog will always be the most intense. But after a few sessions, his reaction will be minimized and he will consequently refrain from doing some unwanted things such as excessive barking.

 We were once a society that viewed animals as their own individual species. Today, our world is quickly changing into one which views domestic animals as individual members of our human family. It is no wonder that we often relate to our domestic animals in human psychology or behavioral terms. Yet, can we really draw parallels between their behavior and ours?

In nature when different species cohabitate together, each animal species continues to retain their instinctive and species-specific behavior. For example, a variety of animals live together on the same safari plains but each species behaves very differently. This is what makes a giraffe behave differently from a zebra even though they are neighbors. Among many other things, they have different mating rituals and different ways to communicate with each other. Likewise, our domestic animals are clever enough to learn our means of communicating with them (sit, stay, come, hand signals, etc) yet they will continue to retain their canine or feline behavior.

In some wild wolf packs, the only members of the pack that are allowed to mate are the alpha female and the alpha male and mating between subordinates is discouraged. The goal is to have enough resources and care for the pups and ultimately, the entire pack. “Humping” behavior in dogs serves two purposes. The first is the obvious need to reproduce. The second purpose behind such behavior is to exert dominance onto another dog. A dog will only tolerate this mounting behavior if he/she views that the dog doing the mounting is above him/her in rank. This subordinate dog can be of either sex, which is why it is not uncommon to see a male dog humping another male dog.

Like us, domestic dogs relate to us as members of their family. In other words, they think of us as members of their dog pack. If and when a dog humps you or another human being, they are essentially communicating the fact that they think they are dominant to you. In the event that you allow such humping behavior, you are agreeing that you are subordinate. Therefore, humping is most definitely not a behavior that you should encourage your dog to do to humans. You as a human should have a higher rank than your dog and because of that, you are also in the position to discourage and prevent him from humping other dogs or humans. By doing do so, you, as his leader, are not allowing him to be dominant over them. When you practice leadership with your dog, it definitely makes for a better time if your friends or their pets come over to your house to visit.

The question is how do we eliminate the humping behavior? Male and female dogs alike display humping behavior, although the incidence is higher in male dogs. The hormone, testosterone, increases sexual behavior and promotes humping, thus neutering/spaying your dog as early as 6 months to a year old helps to decrease the incidence of such undesirable behavior because the hormone producing organs are removed. In addition, neutering/spaying is useful because helps to prevent testicular, prostate, or ovarian cancer. Moreover, it is good practice as a responsible owner to neuter/spay your dog to keep the numbers of stray or unwanted animals to a minimum. Another good remedy would be trying to keep the dog occupied, maybe by giving him a dog treat like bully sticks.

Still, some owners may find that their dogs hump despite neutering/spaying. The use of a simple and firm “No!” and telling your dog to go away from the object or redirecting their behavior into a sit/stay away from the object would be appropriate. What you don’t want to do is to pet your dog, give him/her a chew toy, or anything that might give him/her the impression that you’re rewarding the behavior.

As we humans try to humanize dog behavior, there are some people who feel that they should provide their dog with a means of sexual activity. In fact, humans and perhaps even dolphins are two of the very few animal species that are known to mate for pleasure. Mating for pleasure is not true for dogs, so don’t feel bad when you say “No!” and disallow your dog to hump. All you are doing is showing leadership and telling your dog that no one is allowed to be the boss but you. Think about it this way: you are also bridging the gap between humans and dogs by instilling in your dog good social behavior by informing him that it is not socially acceptable for dogs to hump humans or any other object in sight.

Treatment
The main objective of treatment of a phobia is to teach the animals that the stimulus it is frightened of can be associated with something good, such as a reward.  This is often easier said than done, requiring persistence and patience.   The most important thing to keep in mind is that you must not reinforce fearful behaviour by petting, reassuring, or rewarding the animal (by giving him dog treats like bully sticks).

The approach to any type of fear is the same in principle.  The first step to treatment is to identify what the stimulus is and when it occurs.  When the trigger has been identified, attempt to avoid all encounters with this if possible.  If your dog is afraid of thunderstorms, start your training at a time of year where they are less likely to occur, such as the winter.  The next step is to desensitize the animal and teach relaxation in the presence of the stimulus.  This must be done slowly and systematically.  If the dog is fearful of unfamiliar people, ask a friend to help with training.  Place the dog in a crate and ask the friend to enter the room but keep a great enough distance that the dog remains calm.  Reward the dog for good behaviour with food or affection.  The unfamiliar person can attempt to desensitize the dog by throwing food from a distance, avoiding eye contact, and approaching sideways.  Gradually, over the course of several training sessions, ask the friend to approach closer each time to a distance in which the dog can remain calm.  Remember to only reward calm, relaxed behaviour and not to reinforce inappropriate reactions.  The animal should slowly learn to associate the stimulus with good things, such as treats, resulting in a less fearful response.  

The prognosis for successful treatment is dependent on several factors, including age, duration of the fearful behaviour, and the owner’s diligence with training.  Generally, the younger the age of onset and the longer the duration, the less chance there is of correcting the behaviour.  That is not to say, however, that correction is impossible.  Again, it is important to be able to recognize the triggers and be patient throughout the training process.  With appropriate training, an animal can learn to be relaxed in the presence of previously frightening situations.

How do I stop it?

In all cases, reducing temptation is the quickest solution. Scoop your yard frequently, keep Fido on a short leash in that poop-riddled park, and put the cat box out of reach. The kitty litter may need to be moved onto a higher surface or put in a room with a baby gate. A covered cat box might be all that is needed if the dog is much larger than the cat.

Quite often, a change to a high quality, high protein, low carbohydrate and low fat diet will do the trick. Also, by giving him plenty of healthy dog treats like pig ears, this is another possible solution to reduce the temptation. Commercially available additives are sold in pet stores that claim to make poop less palatable. Many owners find that a teaspoon of canned spinach, pineapple, or a little meat tenderizer works equally well.

Some owners will sprinkle hot sauce or pepper onto the poop in the yard (not on the food!). Keep in mind that Fido can easily sniff out which poops are booby-trapped, so this method might not work as well for dogs that prefer to “eat out” while on walks. Of course it makes sense to get advice from your veterinarian or trainer for help in solving this issue if you cannot.

Although you may wish to train your dog not to use some areas of your house or yard as a toilet, never scold your dog for defecating. Promptly remove him to an appropriate location and praise him when he gets it right. Don’t scold him for poop-eating, either, as even negative attention can be seen as a reward. If stress is the reason for your dog’s new habit, hopefully an end to the stress will result in an end to the habit.

Above all, remember that your dog is performing a behaviour that is natural, and even rewarding to him: to a dog, potentially delicious. Punishment is not always enough to counteract his instincts, and can sometimes reinforce them. Removal of temptation and reward for preferred behaviours are always your best training tools.

Is it harmful?

On the whole, the biggest consequence of coprophagia is that we humans find it revolting. A dog eating its own poop is unlikely to have any harmful effects. Many owners worry about infectious diseases, but most healthy, vaccinated dogs are at a low risk for picking up illnesses this way. Snacking indiscriminately on neighbourhood poop does increase a dog’s chances of picking up worms (especially if there are cats that hunt in the area), but a standard preventative and treatment program will keep this from affecting your dog’s health. For example, many heartworm medications will also kill some types of intestinal worms, and fecal screening for intestinal parasites should be done twice a year at your vet’s office. Keep in mind that your dog will probably be exposed to most parasites in your community whether he is actually taste-testing or just sniffing around.

Something that is of concern when dogs eat cat poop is that they might end up regularly swallowing a side of kitty litter, which is serious in large quantities, especially if the absorbent (clumping) litter expands in the gut. A dog with a belly full of kitty litter can sometimes become severely ill and might end up at the vet with vomiting or diarrhea. The consumed cat litter can be difficult to remove even with surgery, as it can scatter throughout the digestive tract.

For a quick method, try giving him alternatives to those nasty “outdoor snacks”.  Try throwing some dog treats near the poop, like pig ears, and see if he’ll prefer those instead.

 Poop-eating (coprophagia) is generally a natural behaviour in dogs but unfortunately one that can be more than a little disgusting. Let’s face it, dogs are renowned for their flexible palates, and to them, poop is just another taste sensation. Frozen feces, or poopsicles, are an especially alluring snack. Puppies are the most frequent culprits, and owners take heart,  they will usually grow out of this habit with a few precautionary measures. Dogs over one year old that have developed this habit can be a little harder to discourage.

Why do they do it?

Dogs are hard-wired to explore any and all potential food resources in their environment. This is especially true of puppies. Feces is very similar in texture to the regurgitated food they got from mom. Breeding females, as well, are naturally inclined to do their own “scooping”  as they would normally clean up after their pups in the den. In addition, most dogs feel some urge to keep their territory or den clean, especially if they have been scolded for leaving a mess before. For some dogs, it is also a way to garner attention from an owner or to alleviate stress.

A poor quality diet or one that a dog is unable to digest easily might encourage your dog to give his poop a second round, so make sure hes getting plenty of protein in his diet.  One way to make sure he is getting plenty of protein in his diet, is to feed him protein filled dog treats, like pig ears.  In households where both dogs and cats are present, dogs may eat cat feces. Cat feces is more nutritious than dog feces, since cats are less efficient at digesting their food. Cat food is also higher in protein than dog food and so cat poop contains many extra nutrients. That being said, there are some cases when coprophagia indicates a greater health problem, such as pancreatic insufficiency, specific nutrient deficiencies, or plain old starvation. A dog that is eating a lot of food can still starve if the food is missing important nutrients. In these cases the dog will lose weight or develop other symptoms over time.

It is natural for puppies to explore their environment, however, their natural curiosity often leads to frustration on your part when they chew your favorite slippers or dig up your flower bed. While you may be tempted to punish your naughty pup, reinforcing good behavior is much more effective and will keep you and your dog happier.

Chewing
Destructive chewing may be related to anxiety. It is important to train your dog to lie on its bed or in a crate, rather than constantly at your side. Teaching your dog that he or she cannot always receive attention on demand may lessen anxiety. For dogs with separation anxiety, begin with short departures and then gradually increase the length of your time away to lessen their anxiety.

Chew treats are a great way to keep your puppy busy as well as relieve pain associated with teething. Present your puppy with a variety of treats, like lamb ears, to determine which types he likes best, but never give your dog chew toys that resemble household items that you do not want him to chew, i.e. a toy shaped like a shoe. Rotate different treats to keep your puppy’s interest and reward your puppy with praise when he chews on them.

Digging
There are many reasons why dogs dig: to cool off, search for rodents, bury and recover bones or other toys, escape confinement or just for fun. Dogs may be more prone to dig when they are left alone without another diversion. To keep your dog stimulated and occupied, provide him with chew toys and increase play and exercise time to tire him out. You may also consider getting a second dog.

You can discourage digging by changing the groundcover (replace dirt with rocks or concrete) or use remote punishment (turn on a sprinkler or toss a tin can filled with pebbles next to your pet to startle him). If your dog continues to dig, you may want to provide a digging area for him to reinforce appropriate digging.